If you asked each of us individually, to choose a single highlight from our twelve nights in Costa Rica, I think we’d all land on the same answer — and it isn’t an animal sighting (though admittedly, there isn’t much in it, everything we did is truly up there), its a day we spent white-water rafting the Río Balsa in La Fortuna.
Our final day in La Fortuna was dedicated to the Río Balsa and its class II and III rapids. Water isn’t where I’m most comfortable but I’ll give any adventure a go; the kids and my husband, however, were up for this activity from its first mention. We were picked up mid morning from Hotel Monte Real and transferred 45 minutes to our start point on the Río Balsa. The plan: a two and a half hour journey downstream, with more than half of that time dedicated to navigating some of the most thrilling rapids I’ve been on.
This is definitely an activity I’d urge anyone visiting La Fortuna not to skip.
Straight into it
After being kitted out with our own personal floatation device and oar, we met with our raft guide, Jorgio. He took us through the safety drill and my key takeaways were simple: when Jorgio shouts “get down”, you get down! Slide off the side of the raft into its base, no hesitating. I’d assumed this call out was probably an emergency drill for serious issues. I wasn’t prepared for what it actually meant – and just how much fun we’d have when it was shouted.
Children from the age of eight are welcome on this stretch of the river. Class II and III rapids are softer and suitable for families. Remember, I’m the nervous one, but my son has requested to sit at the front of the raft, where the action is. He’s ready!
Each raft takes a maximum of six people, so we were joined by a honeymooning couple to make up the numbers. Seating in the raft is split by ability and responsibility. Those at the front lead the row and are the strongest in the water. Children and those less confident (me!) sit at the back. I’m completely happy to oblige that request but my son is a little disappointed with his seating arrangement next to mum.
Within minutes, we all understood that your position on the raft didn’t really matter. As we leave the bank, it’s clear there’s no easing in. We hit the first rapids instantly, and a wave comes over the raft. We’re all soaked! I turn to see my son in his element – the giggles and excited cheers start there and they don’t stop.
It’s approximately an hour through the rapids, wave after wave. And that request to “get down”, it’s shouted multiple times as we head into some steep dips and drops. It signals the thrill and we’re all listening out intently, preparing for the next call.
Jorgio was faultless as our guide – genuinely one of the best we had anywhere in Costa Rica – and that’s a tough call as they’re all so friendly and knowledgeable. I have no doubt he steered us straight through the trickiest parts of the rapids, just so we’d hit every big wave he could find along the way.
As the rapids disappear and the water calms, you’re able to properly take in where you are. Green tropical forest either side of the river. Birds flitting from branch to branch. Jorgio names all of them and gives us some detail on the area and its history. At one point we pass under what’s left of a pedestrian ‘bridge’ – a rope that once held a basket type carrier that the locals would use pull themselves along to cross the river. It was washed away when the Río Balsa flooded following volcanic activity. Yet another insight into local life that made us feel a world away from ours at home.
The stop halfway down
As we near the midpoint of our journey, we’re allowed to jump into the water. An apprehensive glance at each other, then smiles, and in we go. The flow of the river is stronger than I expected (and remember this is the calmest part of the river) but, as shown, we assume the position – belly up to the sky – and we all shoot off, floating very quickly down to our stopping point.
It’s a well earned fruit break – rowing is quite the workout – and it’s my favourite, pineapple. I can never say it too regularly, Costa Rica genuinely has some of the best fruit I’ve ever tasted. We perch on rocks and recall the best bits of the rafting so far. “Are you enjoying it?” I ask both kids. “It’s the best thing we’ve ever done!” is the response. Enough said.
My son’s moment
As we get back on the water to complete our journey downstream, Jorgio tells my son to move up to the bow of the raft. At first he’s a little unsure but he does as instructed and sits right at the front, legs over the edge, feet dipping in and out of the water. We join the main river flow and we’re back in business – a wave hits the front of the raft knocking my son back into the boat. He squeals and jumps back into position, loving the experience. A second request for my son to now stand on the bow was politely declined with a sheepish smile – too much for him I think – but he happily rode the bow through a few final, smaller rapids, all the way to our pick up point.
Jorgio made my son’s entire day with this one simple thing, and it’s down to his complete expertise and in-depth knowledge of the river – where it’s calm enough but still exciting to sit on the front, where the river’s depth will safely catch someone if they slip from the front of the raft. Everything he allowed was controlled and we certainly felt that as parents watching our youngest scream with delight at the rapids to come.
It’s perhaps a small thing for the guides to do, but it’s the moment I often come back to when I think about this day.
After the rafting
After taking on Río Balsa we’d worked up an appetite. Lunch was included in this tour at a restaurant just 20 minutes drive from the landing spot. After a quick dry off and change of clothes – the tour includes a small individual towel for everyone and there are toilets and changing facilities to use also – we hop back on the bus, complimentary cold drink in hand, and head off for a simple but satisfying buffet-style late-lunch.
After coffee, the restaurant offers the opportunity to understand Costa Rica’s sugar cane production with a quick demonstration of the process. Everyone was treated to a shot of the sweet-juice to taste test – an easy down-in-one that the kids happily did. Their moonshine on the other hand was not for the faint hearted – one sip was more than enough to know it’d blow your head off. I skipped this one in favour of the local beer – an ice cold Imperial.
Keep Planning Your Trip
- Pura Vida! 12 Nights in Costa Rica, from Caribbean Coast to Pacific Coast by Car
- Tortuguero National Park: Sloths, Turtles, and a Rainforest That Never Goes Quiet
- Self-Driving Costa Rica: What You Need to Know
- La Fortuna, Costa Rica: Frogs After Dark, ATVs Through the Jungle, a Volcano Hike and Hot Springs to Finish
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