Saint Lucia gets talked about as one island, but when you spend time there, you can feel its two very distinct personalities. The north is lively with marina bars and beach resorts; the south is lush greenery, volcanic, dramatic, and genuinely wild in places. I’ve spent time across both sides, and the contrast is a big part of why this island holds up to its reputation.
Getting there
Most visitors fly into Hewanorra International Airport (UVF) in the south, though some domestic Caribbean routes land at George F. L. Charles Airport (SLU), closer to the capital Castries and the north. Which one you land at can shape your first couple of hours significantly, given the drive length between the two ends of the island. Travellers from the UK will almost always arrive in the South, unless flying domestically from another island, and it’s worth bearing that in mind when booking any northern based hotels. The transfer time to the north of the island is approximately 90 minutes – though the drive gives you a great initial feel for Saint Lucia as you travel the length of the island via local villages.
The Pitons
Gros Piton and Petit Piton are the reason half the photos of Saint Lucia exist, and they’re worth more than a drive-by photo stop. I hiked Gros Piton myself — it’s an intermediate hike, not a casual walk, with a local guide required, and it’s a several hour round trip. Rising 2,619 feet above sea level, Gros Piton is a certified UNESCO World Heritage site and its trails take you through lush rainforest and volcanic terrain. The final stretch is by far the toughest, with steep sections to master but the views from the top are more than worth it though – the panoramic views over the south coast are genuinely one of the best in the Caribbean. And on very clear days you can even spot the neighbouring islands of Martinique and St. Vincent. Unfortunately, the day was pretty cloudy for me but I was still so pleased with the achievement of reaching the summit.
Petit Piton is the steeper, more technical climb and far less commonly attempted by visitors.
Soufrière and Sulphur Springs
Soufrière town sits right beneath the Pitons, and it’s worth building time around rather than just passing through. Sulphur Springs, often billed as the “world’s only drive-in volcano,” is close by – I viewed the volcanic area itself rather than doing the mud baths, so I can’t speak to that part firsthand, but the sight and smell of the place alone makes it worth the stop.
You’ll also find the Botanical Gardens here which offer a nice tranquil wonder for those interested in the flora and fauna of the island. You’ll often spot hummingbirds of several types here and the walk itself culminates in stunning views of Diamond Falls. The gardens also offer access to mineral bathing too.
Marigot Bay
One of the most photographed harbours in the Caribbean for good reason – a narrow, palm-lined inlet that feels almost hidden until you’re right in it. Worth a slower visit rather than a quick photo stop if you can manage it.
I spent two nights at the marina’s Zoetry Marigot Bay St Lucia resort, a beautiful property with marina views out over the bay. This resort plays into its surroundings with a very luxury tropical feel that sits well with nature. No lifts on site, this resort offers a strong wellness vibe with stunning spa and pampering amenities.
Getting on the water
We did a catamaran trip from the north of the island down to the south – genuinely worth doing. Seeing Saint Lucia from the water changes your sense of the whole island; the Pitons in particular look completely different approaching by sea than they do from the road.
A great tip if you’re staying in the north of the island for entire stay but want to explore the south – take a catamaran tour or other coastal trip down to Soufriere to visit the Sulphur Springs, Botanical Gardens or even hike the Pitons.
Rodney Bay and Reduit Beach
In the livelier, more developed north of the island, Reduit Beach is one of Saint Lucia’s best for a proper beach day, and Rodney Bay itself has the restaurants, bars, and marina life the south doesn’t really offer. I’ve spent many a night out on the main Rodney Bay strip – it’s genuinely lively, with plenty of bars and restaurants that offer an authentic flavour of the island and Saint Lucian local life.
We also did a Segway tour around the area, weaving through the Mount Pimard nature trail just outside Rodney Bay – a fun, slightly different way to see the coastline and some of the old military ruins scattered through the reserve. We stopped off several times to admire our surroundings and often such stops are accompanied by a little rum punch pick me up and fruit snack – mango, coconut and watermelon all prepared on the spot, which is always a fun watch.
Pigeon Island is worth a mention too – small, genuinely stunning, and easy to reach if you’re staying in the Rodney Bay area. We spent time on the beach there and had lunch at one of the restaurants right on the islet – Jambe De Bois, with a view that made the meal memorable in its own right. The food here is fabulous, homemade dishes with a real creole flavour. There are also a handful of beach bars dotted along that same stretch, worth wandering to rather than settling at the first one you reach.
During my time in Rodney Bay, I stayed at Harbor Club – Curio Collection by Hilton. This nautical feel hotel offers great base in this area. We stayed on a bed & breakfast basis, which provided the perfect opportunity to explore and taste test the surrounding restaurants. Harbor Club sits perfectly on the marina but offers a daily shuttle to Pigeon Island and the beach – more on that in my full review.
Friday nights: Jump Up or Fish Fry
Saint Lucia’s Friday nights have their own rhythm, and it’s worth experiencing at least one of the island’s two big weekly traditions.
Gros Islet’s “Jump Up” – a street party that’s been running for over 50 years, every Friday from sunset. Barbecues line the streets, Piton beer flows, and the atmosphere runs well into the early hours. It’s the busier, more raucous of the two, and a great way to mix more in local life.
Anse La Raye’s Friday Fish Fry is the quieter alternative, in a small fishing village on the west coast. Locals genuinely drive across the island for this – a huge outdoor barbecue of freshly caught seafood, cooked right there on the street, washed down with cold Piton beer. It’s simple and basic rather than polished, but that’s exactly the appeal – you end up talking to locals rather than other tourists.
Anse Chastanet and the south coast
A different pace entirely – quieter, more nature-focused, with some of the island’s best snorkelling right off the beach. If Rodney Bay is where you go for nightlife, this stretch of coast is where you go to slow down.
Filled with several of the island’s highest end hotels, you’ll find three wall sanctuaries at the famed Jade Mountain and a similar concept at Ladera Resort. This side of the island is definitely for the nature lover.
Saint Lucia Jazz & Arts Festival
I travelled to Saint Lucia specifically for this a few years ago, back when it was known simply as St Lucia Jazz Festival – one of the Caribbean’s biggest cultural events, and genuinely worth timing a trip around if you can. It’s grown since my visit: now branded the Saint Lucia Jazz & Arts Festival, running eleven days from late April into May, with the main stages at Pigeon Island National Landmark and Rodney Bay, alongside a citywide arts programme in Castries.
Although it’s been a while since I attended, I know the current festival set up and generally experience for travellers is excellent. It’s an established event in the Caribbean and one of the leading festivals across islands. Every year the line up brings in some big names in the genre and it remains a top choice for locals and lots travel in from neighbouring islands. If you’re planning a holiday around it, book well ahead; accommodation near Rodney Bay and Pigeon Island fills up fast once the lineup’s announced.
Where to stay
Given how different the north and south feel, where you base yourself matters more here than on most Caribbean islands:
- Rodney Bay / Reduit Beach – best for nightlife, restaurants, and an easy marina-side stay. Browse options
- Soufrière / the south – best for the Pitons, Sulphur Springs, and a quieter, more scenic base, at the cost of being further from the airport and nightlife. Browse options
A quick tip: A four-night stretch in the north paired with three-nights in the south gives you the lively, sociable side of the island alongside the lush, greener, slower pace further south – with room to add a touch of luxury at one of the higher-end southern properties for the second half.
For some help deciding between between Rodney Bay and Soufrière try my free pre-booking checklist – these are the questions I ask before recommending any property.
Food
Saint Lucia’s dining scene leans into fresh seafood and Creole-influenced Caribbean cooking island-wide. In Rodney Bay specifically, the marina dining scene (Harbor Club’s own Market Street precinct among them) is a genuine draw in its own right, not just a place to eat because you’re staying nearby.
Best time to visit
December to April is the dry season and the most reliable weather window, same trade-off as the wider Caribbean – outside that, prices drop but you’re moving into hurricane season. If you’re planning around the Jazz & Arts Festival specifically, aim for late April into May and book well ahead.
Keep planning your trip:
- Harbor Club, Curio Collection by Hilton, Saint Lucia: A Marina-Side Stay in Rodney Bay
- Saint Lucia Twin-Centre: Experience The Lively North And The Lush Green South During A 7-Night Stay
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